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Nuts, Screws & Bolts - Continued
Here are some notes on my progress so far:
Bolts: In the table on the right, in succeeding columns, left to right, are the
thread, size, body diameter, tap and clearance drills and the unthreaded brass rod
sizes available from J.I. Morris (order direct ((508) 764-4394) or through
micromark ((800) 225-1066). You will see that 0-80, 1-72 and 2-56 provide
sizes (see 3rd line in each row: "proto") near to prototype. In the photo below,
Dai is looking at 1-72 tie rods with hex nuts and washers (fabricated from Morris
stock) and 0-80 nut/bolt sets available from www.microfasteners.com Microfasteners
(800) 892-6917 which also provides "small" hex nuts in UNF 00 through 2, these
match the head dimensions and look great! You'll also need a hex driver set
(Micromark #80240). In wood, I find that one can pre-drill with the tap drill
and then thread the bolt in. This holds well even without a nut on the back.
For UNF 2 and above and for hard woods, you may need to tap the first part of
the hole or use a bit of fine oil lubricant.
Nails:
The best "nails" I have found are 0.7mm dia. ( = 0.38"(proto); large but manageable) brass miniature model ship spikes, in 8, 10 and 12 mm lengths (ModelExpo (800) 742-7171). I find the 8s the most useful; ModelExpo also provides a very useful nail driver (#AM7384). In the photo above, there is a small pile of 8s at the front. In most wood, a #72 hole is necessary and sufficient. However, in brass or hard woods, like mahogany, you may need to use a larger hole, because these nails have a slightly wider body just beneath the heads. The heads are fairly large and some users file them down before driving them home.
Rivets: I'm just getting started with riveting. MicroFasteners has a nice 1/8" dia head, 1/16" dia body aluminum rivet.
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Despite warning, these can be blackened and work well. Cut the body back to an appropriate length and use a 4/32" nail set as a riveting tool if you don't have one. I am now beginning to use brass rivets (and "proper" tools) from Bruce Engineering (UK: 011-44 1932-245529)
Welding: I haven't yet ventured into welding but I am content to use soldering to replicate welding and brazing.
Finishing: I "pre-finish" all my metallic hardware as follows: 3-5 minutes in "Blacken-it" (Awest), rinse, air dry overnight and then a light spray of WD-40 (do not use last step if you plan on painting the hardware). For bolts size 1 or smaller, thread into nut first to preserve the small thread.
| Thread |
Body |
Tap Drill |
Clearance |
Morris Stk. |
|
Diameter |
|
Drill |
Diameter |
| "00-90" |
0.047" |
#63 |
#55 |
|
| |
|
0.037" |
0.052" |
0.045" |
| proto: |
|
1/2" |
11/16" |
5/8" |
| "0-80" |
0.06" |
#55 |
#51 |
|
| |
|
0.052" |
0.067" |
0.058" |
| proto: |
|
11/16" |
7/8" |
25/32" |
| "1-72" |
0.073" |
#53 |
#47 |
|
| |
|
0.0595" |
0.0785" |
0.070" |
| proto: |
|
3/4" |
1
1/16" |
15/16" |
| "2-56" |
0.086" |
#52 |
#42 |
|
| |
|
0.0635 |
0.0935" |
0.083" |
| proto: |
|
7/8" |
1
1/4" |
1
1/8" |
| "3-48" |
0.099" |
#48 |
#36 |
|
| |
|
0.076" |
0.1065" |
|
| proto: |
|
1" |
1
7/16" |
|
| "4-40" |
0.112" |
#44 |
#31 |
|
| |
|
0.086" |
0.120" |
0.114" |
| proto: |
|
1
3/16" |
1
5/8" |
1
9/16" |
| "6-32" |
0.138" |
#36 |
#26 |
|
| |
|
0.1065" |
0.147" |
|
| proto: |
|
1
7/16" |
2" |
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For our UK/European Colleagues: I have no
experience with either metric or BA sized bolts, etc. However, in the BA
system, BA12 is midway between UNF 0 and 00, BA10 is roughly equivalent to
UNF 1 and BA8 is roughly equivalent to UNF 2. Don't get me wrong - If you
want to use glue, do so! I won't sneer! However, one of the joys of 7/8n2
and 7/8n18 is not having to.
Jonathan Black
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